Thick Repellant

Dog Music

Many pet owners leave their home radios playing all day for the listening pleasure of their dogs and cats. Station choices vary. "We have a very human tendency to project onto our pets and assume that they will like what we like," said Charles Snowdon, an authority on the musical preferences of animals. "People assume that if they like Mozart, their dog will like Mozart. If they like rock music, they say their dog prefers rock."

Against the conventional wisdom that music is a uniquely human phenomenon, recent and ongoing research shows that animals actually do share our capacity for it. But rather than liking classical or rock, Snowdon, an animal psychologist at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, has discovered that animals march to the beat of a different drum altogether. They enjoy what he calls "species-specific music": tunes specially designed using the pitches, tones and tempos that are familiar to their particular species.
With no pun intended, music is all about scale: Humans like music that falls within our acoustic and vocal range, uses tones we understand, and progresses at a tempo similar to that of our heartbeats. A tune pitched too high or low sounds grating or ungraspable, and music too fast or slow is unrecognizable as such.

To most animals, human music falls into that ungraspable, unrecognizable category. With vocal ranges and heart rates very different from ours, they simply aren't wired to appreciate songs tailored for our ears. Most studies find that, try as we might to get their legs thumping, animals generally respond to human music with a total lack of interest. That's why Snowdon has worked with cellist and composer David Teie to compose music that is tailored to suit them.
Back in 2009, the researchers composed two songs for tamarins — monkeys with vocalizations three octaves higher than our own and heart rates twice as fast. The songs sound shrill and unpleasant to us, but they seem to be music to the monkeys' ears. The song modeled on excited monkey tones and set to a fast tempo made the tamarins visibly agitated and active. By contrast, they calmed down and became unusually social in response to a "tamarin ballad," which incorporated happy monkey tones and a slower tempo.
Snowdon and Teie have moved on to composing music for cats, and studying how they respond to it.
"We have some work-in-progress where we've transposed music and put it in the frequency range for cat vocalizations, and have used their resting heart rate, which is faster than ours," he told Life's Little Mysteries. "We find that cats prefer to listen to the music composed in their frequency range and tempo rather than human music."
On the basis of their results, Teie has started selling cat songs online (at $1.99 per song) through a company called "Music for Cats."
Dogs are a tougher audience, mostly because breeds vary widely in size, vocal range and heart rate. However, large dogs such as Labradors or mastiffs have vocal ranges that are quite similar to those of adult male humans. "So, it is possible that they might be responsive to music in our frequency range. My prediction is that a big dog might be more responsive to human music than a smaller dog such as a Chihuahua," Snowdon said. [Dogs Play the Piano in New Video]
Indeed, some dogs do appear to respond emotionally to human music. Research led by Deborah Wells, a psychologist at Queen's University Belfast, shows that dogs can discern between human music of different genres. "Our own research has shown that dogs certainly behave differently in response to different types of music, e.g., showing behaviors more suggestive of relaxation in response to classical music and behaviors more suggestive of agitation in response to heavy metal music," Wells wrote in an email.
Considering the great demand for new ways to please our pets, more progress is likely to be made in the field of animal music. But no matter how well composers perfect their dog, cat and monkey songs, the animals will probably never appreciate their species-specific music quite as much as humans appreciate ours. According to Snowdon, they lack an important musical ability that we possess: relative pitch.
"We can recognize that a sequence of notes is the same whether it's in the key of F or A flat," he said. "I have found that animals have very good absolute pitch, but they don't have relative pitch. They can learn to recognize a sequence of notes, but if you transpose the notes to a different key, so that the sequence uses the same relative notes but the key is different, they can't recognize the relationships between the notes anymore."
He added, "To that extent, we understand music in a different way than animals do."
Follow Natalie Wolchover on Twitter @nattyover. Follow Life's Little Mysteries on Twitter @llmysteries, then join us on Facebook.

Housebreaking

Whether a new pup or an older addition to the family, one of the most important aspects of pet ownership is housetraining (notice I use the term house "training" as opposed to house "breaking"). I'll start out with suggestions for a pup which can also be used on an adult Lhasa new to the home. Adopting an older Lhasa (be it 10 months or 5 years) gives you an edge in that it has a larger bladder to start with and has more focus on matters at hand. Lhasa puppies are silly little things ... flitting here, flying there ... peeing before you even know what happened because their legs are so short you didn't even realize they were squatting ...

**For clarification ~ unless specifically noted, "Lhasa" is used when referring to a puppy or an older dog.

» First and foremost, you have a puppy, a baby (an infant, if you will) living with you now. It has a very small bladder and no control over its bladder or bowels. As the pup matures, it will gain more control over these bodily functions. Also, please bear in mind it is not uncommon for an older Lhasa to have some training issues until it learns (1) what is and what isn't appropriate, (2) what the normal household routine is, and (3) where its' place is in the pack order. Until such time, I suggest utilizing the crate/tether/gate method as a training tool for all ages. If your Lhasa isn't in its crate, it is tethered to you by means of a 4-6 foot leash (called "tether training"). If it's not crated or tethered, it is gated (or penned) in a small area with its toys, food and bedding for short supervised periods of time. With Lhasas older than 8 months, I suggest using a crate/tether at all times. By keeping your Lhasa in close proximity, you will learn its "I gotta go potty" body language and can move to get it outside. Lhasas generally will not soil a crate unless: (1) the crate is too large, (2) if they are left for unreasonable periods of time, or (3) have a gastrointestinal "bug."

» Puppies should be taken out every 20-30 minutes to the same area; dogs over a year can go out every 1-2 hours. Pick a cue word or phrase and use it every time, i.e., "Get with it! "Hurry up!" etc., etc. For every appropriate potty behavior, lavish praise and a special treat are in order. You want to make a big production of it so he/she knows you are extremely pleased with its behavior. I suggest a special, irresistible treat reserved just for potty training along a happy, high-pitched voice just oozing praises ... and never mind what the neighbors think. Puppies should also be taken out: (1) first thing out of the crate, (2) right after every meal, (3) in the middle of a long play session, and (4) just before bedtime [in addition to the every 20-30 minutes ... oh yes, puppies are lots of work!!]. As the pup matures, you can extend the time between potty breaks.

» Please bear in mind that when you get your new pup outside, it is going to want to jump, play, explore, run, and mouth everything it can find (an older, new dog will want to sniff and check everything out) ... anything but go potty. In other words, you'll have to spend some time with it for every potty run to begin with. You want to give it plenty of time to go (but don't play with him/her) and then be on hand when it does so you can treat/praise lavishly. If, after a reasonable amount of time, your Lhasa still hasn't gone potty, put him/her in its crate. Wait 10-15 minutes and take outside again. You may have to do this several times before getting the desired results ... elimination outside! I guarantee the minute you decide your Lhasa doesn't have to go and is allowed access to the carpet, it will unload the nanosecond your back is turned or it gets out of your line-of-sight behind the leg of the coffee table.

» If your Lhasa has an accident, do not scold unless you catch it in the act!! Clean up the accident quickly, quietly and out of his/her sight, if at all possible. Lhasas donot take kindly to physical punishment or yelling. A simple "bad boy/girl" in a low voice accompanied by a frown is sufficient ... and only if you catch your Lhasa in the act. Immediately take it outside ... if it manages to eliminate outside ~ even a drop ~ after having an accident inside, you want to praise heartily and treat immediately. A rolled-up newspaper should only be used to hit yourself in the head because you were not watching your Lhasa close enough. Scolding a Lhasa after the fact only teaches it is "bad to go potty" at any time ... then you'll have a Lhasa sneaking off and eliminating somewhere else in the house where you can't see it (another good reason for tethering training). BOTTOM LINE: if your Lhasa is having accidents in the house, it's YOUR fault for not watching him/her close enough and anticipating its elimination needs.

» Buy an enzymatic cleaner and use it correctly. Both canines and felines are drawn back to the same elimination area by smell (and they will return to the same area again and again, if allowed). These cleaners have enzymes in them that "eat" stains and odors. Nature's Miracle and Simple Solution are two of the most popular and can be purchased at Petsmart, Petco, or the local pet supply place. Don't bother with the quart ... the gallon size is much more economical and I guarantee you will be using it. Works on urine, feces, vomit and blood. I'm finding that some folks buy Nature's Miracle (wonderful product) and then use it incorrectly. Once the initial feces/urine is cleaned/wiped up, the cleaner should be used to soak the whole area and then left to dry. No blotting up allowed!! The enzymes can't work if they're being drawn back out of the carpet and pad. When steam cleaning carpets, I use the enzymatic cleaner in a 50/50 mixture in my big Hoover steam cleaner (50% water, 50% enzymatic cleaner). Also works great on ceramic kitchen tile and grout as it penetrates the grout and eliminates stains/odors. For tough or old stains, you may have to apply and let dry several times over several days. Can also be used to muck out crates. Like I said ... buy the gallon size (and if the store is across town, buy 2 gallons!).

» If you're lucky enough to be installing new carpet before a new pet arrives, invest in "PetPad" carpet padding. It is special carpet padding that has a waterproof layer bonded directly to the top of the pad. If there are any accidents or spills, it keeps the liquid from soaking completely through the padding to the sub flooring ... which makes it much easier to clean and remove stains/odors from the carpet. The additional cost is nominal and well worth the investment.

» The most serious training blunders an owner can make are (1) allowing the Lhasa access to other areas of the house before he/she has earned it by displaying appropriate potty habits and (2) by not monitoring his/her every move. Granted, there will be accidents ... doodoo happens. However, if you are watching your Lhasa carefully (tethering), confining it to a specific area (crate/gate), and giving it ample opportunity to eliminate outside accompanied by lavish praise/treats, it will all come together ... but not overnight and it varies with each Lhasa. Some will "get it" at six months ... others won't until they are older and possibly close to being 12 months old. Until they do get it, consistency and communicating to them what is expected are priorities. I find with older Lhasas it generally takes anywhere from 1-4 months after arriving in the home to be deemed totally reliable (some less, some more ... depends on the dog). And remember, each dog is an individual and what works for one, may not work on another. You have to take into consideration the Lhasa, background, temperament, and what other problems need to be dealt with first.

» I use a 60-day "rule of thumb" when house training. Each day that goes by without an accident is counted, i.e., Day 1, Day 2, etc., etc. An accident bumps us back to "Day 1" again. When a Lhasa has gone a full consecutive 60 days with no accidents, I deem it as being "reliable." In the event of a relapse, we revert to the crate/tether/gate method to whatever degree I feel is necessary ... it may be a full tether, or just a baby gate placed across the door to the room that I am in with the Lhasa, or crating when unsupervised ... or all three methods and counting from Day 1 again.

» Finally!!!! ... Your Lhasa has figured out that going potty outdoors has its own rewards and will "Get with it!" on command. How do you go from annoying the neighbors with your incessant chant at all hours to getting your Lhasa to "tell" you it needs to go?? There are two generally-recognized methods you can utilize for this.The first is the "bell" method: Hang a small string of bells (saved from Christmas or purchased at a craft store) by the back door at the Lhasa's level. Each time you take your Lhasa outside, physically take its nose or paw and "ring" the bells (accompanied by praise, of course). One day, your Lhasa will run to the door and ring the bells!! (And you'd better hope you're not at the other end of the house where you can't hear them.) Only problem with bells ... (1) they can't be heard all over the house, (2) if you're visiting other homes, you'll need to bring your bells along, and (3) some Lhasas don't like bells and won't go near them. I prefer teaching them to "speak" on command using treats. Once your Lhasa has mastered "speaking," start cuing it at the door during a normal potty run ... "Frankie, you need to go outside?? What do you say?? Can you speak?" When he/she "speaks," the door is opened and access to the yard is allowed. Same cue to open the door to get back inside. "Telling" you they have to go outside (or want back inside) works anywhere, anytime and is easily transferable to any outside door. Don't be surprised if you find yourself designated "doorperson" for a Lhasa that enjoys the yard. If you know the pooch in question really doesn't have to go, i.e., was just outside and just went potty (which means you are still monitoring his/her toilet habits), you can deny access, should you choose. Many smart little Lhasas will play the "I go outside, I get a cookie/treat" game if allowed ... and then you end up with a smart, fat little Lhasa. As a side note, some Lhasas will refuse to "tell" you they have to go outside. You are expected to read their minds and know that "I'm sitting here staring at the door," means, "I gotta go potty." These are the dogs that I run out of the house every 1-2 hours or so … just in case.

» Having your Lhasa on a set feeding and toileting routine is extremely beneficial when house training. You learn his/her schedule and can anticipate its needs for elimination. With the older Lhasas, I feed once a day in the early evening with several "potty" treats during the day. If a Lhasa has a sensitive tummy and/or is having the dreaded "yellow foamies," I'll split its daily food intake into two meals or supplement the once-a-day meal with small treats throughout the day to keep its tummy from becoming empty. However, should the smaller, more frequent meals or additional treats throughout the day not take care of the "foamy" problem, please have your Lhasa evaluated by a vet!! The "yellow foam" is actually bile being thrown up and can be a sign of a much more serious problem, i.e., an upper GI tract inflammation that can be come very serious … even life threatening … if ignored.

» Learn to use "cues," like a having one outside spot designated as a potty area ... even if it means picking up a poop in the house and carrying it outside to the potty area for that newly-arrived Lhasa. If you have another housetrained dog, enlist its aid to help train your new arrival (once you've determined the two are compatible). Every time the older or established dog goes outside for potty, send the little buddy out too. (On the other hand, if you have a dog that isn't fully housetrained, it will also be teaching its little buddy where to toilet in the house ...).

» Some Lhasas will engage in "coprophagia" … in other words, they eat their own poop. There are many theories why this happens, none of which makes it any more palatable to us humans. If your Lhasa starts this unpleasant snacking activity, you can do the "swoop and scoop," getting it out of their reach as soon as possible. Some owners have good results mixing green beans or pineapple in with their Lhasa's regular food. Others employ commercial products such as "Deter" or "Forbid" which are sprinkled on regular food. Still others swear by Tabasco sauce dashed on the "delicacy." You'll just have to experiment and see what works best for you and your dog. Some Lhasas will also raid the cat's litter box given half a chance … a medical disaster waiting to happen if you use clay-based litter. Keep litter boxes out of reach or inaccessible.

» If you have a Lhasa (or any pet, canine or feline) suddenly "lose" its house training when it has been reliable for a long time, please have it thoroughly evaluated by your vet. It may have an underlying medical condition causing it to lose its training, i.e., bladder/kidney stones, urinary tract infection, diabetes, Cushing's or Addison's disease, cognitive difficulties, epileptic seizures, liver disease or kidney failure. Neutered males or spayed females may also develop incontinence, which can easily be controlled with medication. Any deviation from established habits is good reason for going to the vet … and not just assuming your Lhasa is being "stubborn" or "vengeful" or "getting old."

» Lhasas recovering from bladder or kidney stones have their own set of problems, especially if surgery was involved. Until the bladder/kidney heals, they may have some leakage or little control. Please be patient with your Lhasa and consult with your vet if it doesn't appear to be improving.

» Males & Marking: Some male dogs will engage in "marking" behaviors. By urinating a little on whatever they pass by, they are telling other dogs that "this is mine and I'm willing to defend it." One of the best ways to prevent this is to have your male neutered at an early age (4-6 months old), and the sooner the better.Many early-neutered males never lift their legs and they'll never come up with testicular cancer or one of the other related problems. If you've an older male with marking problems, you can purchase "belly bands" which work well in conjunction with tether training (here's that word again!). A belly band is a strip of cloth that is wrapped around the dog's middle which fastens with Velcro. Inside the belly band is a woman's panty liner. As the dog goes along "marking," the urine is contained within the pad. At the same time, you can issue a correction, i.e., a short, sharp pull on the leash and the command "no mark!" Until such time as the dog learns marking is not acceptable behavior, the furnishings are protected. Obviously, when running the dog outside, the belly band needs to be removed. If you can't find belly bands in your area, you can make your own or go online with one of the search engines and locate an outlet for them (Google.com is the premium search engine with well over 2+ billion websites referenced). Occasionally, females will also engage in this marking of territory. Again, tether training is your best bet to teach her this is unacceptable behavior in a home setting. Early spaying of a female will decrease the likelihood of this behavior, in addition to greatly reducing her risk of getting mammary cancer. And a spayed female will never have an unplanned pregnancy or the often fatal pyrometria (infection of the uterus).

If you've found this article to be helpful, please consider making a donation to Lhasa Apso Rescue (… or, better yet, becoming a volunteer!). Information regarding donations and/or volunteer opportunities may be found at … http://www.LhasaApsoRescue.org … under the "Adoptions" link. Congrats on your new Lhasa!!

© Vickie Kuhlmann 2002
ALAC Rescue ~ Colorado
NorthTwin@aol.com

Permission to reproduce and/or circulate this article is granted with the condition that it be disseminated in its entirety and the copyright/credit to Vickie Kuhlmann remains attached.Authored by © Vickie Kuhlmann 2002
Modified 03/01/2005 21:45:09

Dog Allergy Scratchy Dog

What causes allergies?

Whether we are talking people or pets, the culprit is an overactive immune system. The immune system is designed to protect us, but when it mistakes non-harmful environmental substances (allergens) as threats, then allergic reactions occur. For example, if your dog comes across rye grass or ragweed, and the dog's immune system views it as a threat, an allergic reaction occurs.

Are some breeds more susceptible to allergies than others?

In our practice we see atopy (allergic skin disease due to environmental allergens) more commonly in golden retrievers and German shepherds. In a 2010 study published in "Veterinary Dermatology," breed susceptibility was shown to vary among geographic locations.

How can I tell if my dog is suffering from allergies? What are the common symptoms?

Pruritus (itching) is the hallmark sign of allergies. Dogs exhibit itching either by licking or chewing the skin or scratching with their feet. Common areas affected are the face, ears, feet, belly, and armpit region.

What are common things dogs may be allergic to?

Common environmental allergens include dust mites, fleas, molds and pollens from grasses, trees, weeds, and flowers. Dogs may also have food allergies or food intolerance to certain ingredients, such as beef, chicken, fish, and soy.

How can allergies be treated?

It is important to keep two points in mind. Atopy (environmental allergies) can be managed but not cured, and re-checks are crucial to assess response and modify treatments. Here are some current treatment options:

• Corticosteroids (i.e., prednisone, triamcinolone): Very effective for dogs suffering from atopy. Injectable products such as Depo-Medrol® are long-lasting and should be used cautiously. Long-term continual use is not recommended.
• Antihistamines (e.g. Benadryl): Can help in some cases, but histamine is only one of many causes of itchiness. Your veterinarian will often use this class of drugs in combination with corticosteroids.
• Cyclosporine (e.g. Atopica) : Effective in most cases, typically fewer side effects than corticosteroids but can cause stomach upset initially. Expensive compared to most other medications.
• Allergy Vaccine : Allergy vaccines can help reduce the symptoms in patients over time, from months to years.
• Topical Antimicrobial Therapy : Vetericyn is a safe and effective topical antibacterial, anti-yeast, and antifungal spray.
• Shampoos, Rinses, Conditioners : All of these are a vital part of therapy.

For more information, visit www.vetericyn.com

Read more: http://www.cesarsway.com

Tick & Fleas I think i know

Fleas and ticks. Ticks and fleas. They go together like birds and bees…but they’re actually very different. To protect your dog from both of these parasites it’s important that you understand the differences between them. Here are some of the differences that separate these parasites.

mama look im with a friend

sleeping like a log

see you soon daddy :(

A Thing about Separation Anxiety on Dogs

By Cesar Millan

You come home from a long day at work to a spinning, jumping whirlwind of energy. Your dog follows you into your living room, where you find that he has chewed on your favorite pair of shoes. Your neighbor comes by to tell you that, once again, your dog has been driving the neighborhood crazy by howling and barking while you were away. Is this scenario familiar? Your dog may be suffering from dog separation anxiety.

In nature, dogs are almost never away from their pack. It is our job to help make this unnatural situation less stressful!

Here are five tips to help ease separation anxiety:

1. Before you leave the house, take your dog for a walk.

Start your day by taking your dog for a brisk walk. To make the walk even more rigorous, use a dog backpack with extra weight in it. Then reward your dog's calm-submissive energy with food and water. Some dogs may need to rest before eating, but all dogs can benefit from hydration. The idea is to leave your dog in quiet, resting mode while you are away.

2. No touch, no talk, no eye contact.

Don't make a big deal when you leave for the day or when you return. This way, you are communicating to your dog that the time apart is no big deal. It's just business as usual! Depending on the severity of the dog anxiety, you may need to practice the rule for five minutes or up to an hour before you leave and when you get back.

3. Say goodbye to your dog long before you leave.

Having trouble practicing "no touch, no talk, no eye contact"? Take a moment to share affection and tell your dog that you will miss him way before you actually leave. Keep in mind that this display is for you, not your dog! Your dog won't have his feelings hurt if you didn't say goodbye.

4. Stay calm and assertive!

When you are ready to go to work, leave those guilty, nervous, and concerned feelings behind. Instead, let your dog know that everything is going to be okay by projecting the confident energy of a pack leader. A calm and assertive leader can ease separation anxiety in dogs.

5. Start out small by leaving your dog alone for just five minutes.

Leave your dog alone for five minutes, then extend the time to twenty minutes, then an hour. Continue to increase the time you spend away until you can leave for a full eight hours without any more dog problems!

Read more: http://www.cesarsway.com

The Emphatic Eyes of Pepper

Can Dogs Feel Empathy?

By Leslie Garrett

It’s something we dog lovers have likely pondered any number of times when our pet looks at us with those wise, wide eyes: “I wonder what he’s thinking…”

Two recent studies are moving us closer than ever to a definitive answer.

In a UK study, two researchers at Goldsmiths College in London, Deborah Custance and Jennifer Mayer, set out to determine if dogs are capable of empathy – an ability to truly understand emotion.

“I had talked to so many people who have dogs who say, ‘it’s like my dog is trying to comfort me,’” says Custance. Though she admits her own dog never offered comfort — “my dog was very hard-hearted,” she laughs — she set out to study whether dogs were even capable of caring in the way so many of us assume that they are.

They gathered a group of largely untrained pets, mostly mixed breeds and equally divided between males and females. Then they set up a situation with the dog’s owner and a stranger to the dog. The owner and the stranger would alternately talk, hum in an odd way, or cry. The researchers wanted to see how the dogs reacted.

The dogs responded — 15 of the 18 in the study — by seeking out the person in distress, even if that person was the stranger. “On the surface, it certainly seemed as if the dogs were demonstrating empathy,” says Custance, who thought that if the dogs were seeking comfort for themselves they would go to their caretaker. She admits that the study raises other questions: What about other emotions, such as pleasure or anger? Would dogs respond differently to children?

However, the findings are being interpreted by many as proof that we’re more than just a meal ticket for our dogs. This doesn’t surprise Custance, who acknowledges that dog lovers want to believe it. “We were so careful to say there’s more work to be done.” Nonetheless, she says, “We have benefitted greatly from dogs. It’s definitely a symbiotic relationship.”

Gregory S. Berns, director of the Emory Center for Neuropolicy in Atlanta, Georgia, and a dog lover himself, might soon be able to provide definitive evidence of a dog’s feelings. He was inspired to take a peek into the canine cranium after learning about the heroic Navy dog that helped take down Osama bin Laden. He noted that the dog had not only learned to endure hostile conditions but apparently to enjoy it. What, he wondered, was the dog thinking?

“Why do an fMRI on a dog?” wrote Berns in an article on Psychology Today’s website. “The answer is obvious: to see what they think.”

He spent a year, together with an assistant and a dog trainer, to prepare dogs for the fMRI. Since the Navy dog had learned to handle the noise of a helicopter, Burns prepared dogs for the noise of the procedure by having them trained to wear ear plugs. He also, under strict ethical guidelines to ensure no dogs were harmed and were free to “quit” the experiment at any time, had the dogs trained to stay perfectly still in the scanner. Even a slight movement would ruin the image.

It took a year, but Berns reports that they were successful on the anniversary of the bin Laden mission. The unsurprising discovery was that the reward center of dogs’ brains lit up when there was a hand signal indicating they would receive a hot dog treat. Far more interesting, Berns and his team discovered that dogs’ brains are much more responsive when information comes from humans, as opposed to inanimate signals, like Pavlov’s famous bells. “They like looking at us, just as we like looking at them,” writes Berns. He goes on to say that this ability to map their brains provides the tool to answer questions relating to dogs’ ability to feel empathy.

“I wonder what he’s thinking…” might not need pondering much longer.

Read more: http://www.cesarsway.com

My 1st Birthday

Home and Your Dog

Finally a Bed from Mama with Love 

Your Home and Your dog

When we think of architecture and home design, we generally think in human terms. Is the home or apartment big enough for the family? Is it in a style that the residents can live with? When it comes to the interior, is the furniture arranged to provide plenty of room to move around, but also make the TV easy to see from various angles and the dining table easy to sit at with no one shoved up against a wall? All of these elements are important from a human point of view, but it is too easy to forget that the design and décor of a home also have an effect on its canine residents. Not only do dogs see the home from a much different, lower perspective, but they perceive it in an entirely different way. They won’t care whether the furniture, paint and drapes are perfectly color-coordinated — but if the fabric on the sofa gives off a bad (to them) smell, or there aren’t any safe places to make a den, then your dog won’t feel at home at all.

When decorating your home, it is also very important to consider what materials you use. Flooring, fabric, and paint can cause unexpected problems if you do not choose carefully. For example, while Berber rugs may look nice, they have large-loop material that can easily snag on your dog’s claws which can unravel the rug and injure your dog. If possible, hard floors are preferable to carpet — they are easier to clean, and can provide a cool spot for your dog to lie on on hot days. If you must have carpet, select a low pile in a stain-resistant synthetic fiber or wool.

For furniture, consider tightly-woven fabrics that can resist rips and tears. Leather, ultra suede, and microfiber material are all ideal choices for dog lovers. They also make it easier to clean up pet fur. If your existing furniture is not the ideal material, then use washable slipcovers to protect the fabric and facilitate clean-up. For windows, avoid vertical mini-blinds, which can be quickly damaged as curious dogs push through them to see what’s outside. Also take precautions to tie up drapery pulls and cords so they will not be a strangulation hazard or temptation for chewing.

Large and elaborate is not always better, especially because of the recent tendency for people to have fewer children and adopt more dogs, often seeing their dogs as "practice family."

People are also shifting to leaner lifestyles with less of an impact on the environment. With this in mind, as well as with an eye to what a dog needs, architect and designer Erick Millan devised the Doghouse Cube as a simple, practical alternative, winning Best in Show at last year’s Barkitecture Austin, one of a series of annual dog house competitions and fundraisers.

Two hidden dangers for dogs are paint and plants. When repainting your home, look for brands that are advertised as having no or low VOC (volatile organic compounds) levels. These are chemicals used to quicken drying and enhance mold resistance, but they can out-gas for up to a year and a half and could cause respiratory issues for your dog. When it comes to live plants, avoid ivies, philodendrons and dieffenbachia, which all can be harmful if ingested.

The above is good advice if you’re redecorating or moving, but if you don’t have either of those luxuries, then you can always provide your dog with his or her own den or doghouse, which can be as simple as Snoopy’s famous A-frame box or as elaborate as a mini-McMansion. One company, Le Petite Maison of South Carolina, creates dog houses that come standard with recessed lighting and, typically, a heating and cooling system for the dog’s comfort. While there are no enforced building codes for dog houses in the United States, some international regulations insist upon heavy climate protection. One Le Petite Maison project in Asia even had to be typhoon proof.

“Dogs relate to space differently than we do,” Erick explained. “They approach with their sense of smell.” Following their instincts as den animals, they seek out more intimate spaces. Unlike the traditional doghouse design with a big, obvious opening in front, the Doghouse Cube’s entrance is narrow and almost hidden, with the opening to the private space inside smaller than the space itself. The former provides a challenge to the dog and an opportunity to explore, while the latter accommodates a dog’s tendency to sleep in a curled-up, fetal position. The exterior cube provides an area for the dog to lie in the sun, while its open gridwork creates complex shadow play.

A key word when planning your space for your dog is “multi-function,” and the Doghouse Cube is also designed to accommodate human needs, with room for extra storage or green space on top. When the two parts of the cube are closed together, it can function as an accent piece or even spare seating, which is ideal for making the most of limited room.

Although dogs have been domesticated for a long time, human living spaces are quite different from the natural world they would prefer. Fortunately, with a little clever adaptation by people, you can make your home feel natural for your dog, whether you live in a cabin in the woods or a high rise in the city.

Daydreaming of my own Bed

Mama Dada &Me

First Fur Cut

The Lhasa Apso is a small, hardy dog. The body length is longer than the height of the dog. The small, deep-set eyes are dark brown and the pendant ears are heavily feathered. The front legs are straight. The back legs are heavily covered in hair. The muzzle is medium in length. The teeth should meet in a level or slightly undershot bite. The feet are round and catlike with an abundance of hair. The tail is set high, well feathered and carried over the back in a screw. Some tails have a kink at the end. The dense, double coat is straight and long over the entire body, including over the head and eyes, reaching to the floor. Any color is acceptable in the show ring. Gold, cream and honey are the most popular, but the coat also comes in dark-grizzle, slate, smoke and multi-colors of brown, white and black. Puppy coats often change colors as the puppy grows. Owners often cut the dogs’ hair short in a puppy cut to make them easier to care for.

This is a hardy dog with a friendly, assertive manner. Intelligent and lively, it makes a good pet. Lhasa Apsos are spirited and devoted little dogs that are affectionate with their masters. They can be very obedient to their masters. This breed responds to motivational training. They have a keen sense of hearing, and make good watchdogs. The Lhasa Apso travels well. Sadly, this little dog often falls into Small Dog Syndrome, a human induced behavior where the dog thinks he is pack leader to humans. This causes many varying degrees of negative behaviors to come out in the dog. They become suspicious of strangers, and may not tolerate children. They will become willful with a loud persistent bark, as they try and get THEIR humans to listen to them. They will become nervous and untrustworthy with strangers and children, and inclined to fight with other dogs. Often times they will develop separation anxiety, getting very upset when left alone. Followers are not allowed to leave the pack leader, however pack leaders can leave the followers. They can become can snappish if surprised or peeved, and begin to display guarding behaviors. These negative behaviors are NOT traits of the Lhasa Apso; they are human induced behaviors resulting from the dog not being treated like the canine species it is, and due to lack of leadership, rules and the lack of limits placed on the dog. A mentally stable dog that gets enough mental and physical exercise will have a totally different personality. It is all up to the humans around the dog. As soon as the humans start being true pack leaders, the dog’s behavior will change for the better.

Baby Fur Son Pepper

3 month old pepperooney

My Lhassa Apso Pepper is a unique little watchdog who likes to play by his own rules. While he will be devoted to you, loyal and loving, he won't necessarily want to please you. The breed is intelligent and can be manipulative. They are independent souls -- some would call them stubborn -- who will be a sensitive and caring friend. They make great watchdogs because they only bark for a reason, and they are naturally wary of strangers. They should be socialized early on so that this innate suspicion does not turn into aggression. The breed is joyful and dignified, full of energy and curiosity. Thanks to their independence, they don't seem to mind waiting for you to get home from work. And twenty minutes of exercise each day should suffice. They can get the rest of their exercise by climbing things, which they like to do. As a breed, they are slow to mature, and can act like puppies until they are nearly three. They seem to gravitate more towards adult companionship than that of children, and they are usually scared of toddlers and will run and hide. So if you are looking for a loving companion who will have his own personality, who will be a challenge to train, and who will keep you chuckling, the Lhasa Apso might be your next best friend.